By: Peter Brehm
Paul
Draper, CEO
and Winemaker at Ridge Vineyards called it "a truly great
vintage." "Flavors and color extraction were intense.
Tannins are quite fine and acidity firm. Typically we see variation
in depth and complexity across the 40 some parcels, but this year virtually
every one produced exceptionally high quality."
Who are we to argue?
This was also our
experience. In California there was grower intent and obliging weather that
resulted in large crops. This year, if the vines were not smacked with early mildew,
had ideal weather to produce a large excellent crop. It was dry. It was sunny.
It was good. Not too dry, though
dry enough to restrict excessive growth. Rains took to late November to arrive.
2013 and the 2012
vintages have allowed us an extensive selection of Bordeaux grapes from one of
the finest wine regions in the world. A
large part of this selection centers above and around Kenwood, Ca. Vineyards are
on the ridges of the Valley of the Moon including Sonoma Mountain, Moon
Mountain and the future Fountain Grove District AVAs. The 2012 and 2013 vintages
did provide mature grapes and rich wines.
Get your hands & arm into these vintages. Compare Syrahs from Sonoma with one from
Mosier, OR 600 miles north in the Columbia Gorge, or with one from the Columbia
Valley. Savor the spices, berries, and the oral explosion with a wide range of
Zinfandels from Sonoma Mountain, Mendocino’s Talmage Bench and/or the Sierra Foothills
(also a great value). Compare the climates’ impact on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
when grown in a marine type climate of the Carneros with a long growing season
to the more continental climate of the Western Columbia Gorge – There are four
different and uniquely different wines great there.
White Salmon Vineyard and the Northwest also experienced an
exceptional vintage and growing season. All grapes harvested for Brehm
Vineyards at White Salmon Vineyard were exceptional. The Columbia Gorge
experienced one of the finest vintages in memory. It was the earliest harvest,
ever. I harvested Pinot Noir for a rosé and Chardonnay for commercial wineries
on September 19th. This is before Sangiacomo Chardonnay was
harvested in Carneros. Never before! Low yields and healthy plants will do this
to you – good stuff. Pinot Grigio bunches were tiny, with mature color and
flavors, Gruner was perfect, Gewurztraminer is a little more luscious than past vintages, but with same super
aromatics.
Glorious weather was punctuated by 3 intense rain events
during the harvest season. Exceptional sun-filled days followed these rains
allowing later harvests of unblemished fruit.
While yields were low, the small bunches and berries allowed the
resulting fine quality. The Riesling was kissed with a tasteful bit of
botrytis.
Columbia Gorge SYRAH,
Mosier, OR
The Syrah from
Mosier, Oregon represents the eastern, warmer end of the Columbia Gorge. Grown
in a basalt bowl long filled with the sediment of past floods, it provides
sandy, dusty soils and a reflective sun from its rock walls. The grapes yielded
approximately 2 tons to the acre. WSV produced a ton of this exceptional fruit in
its winery. It is dark, intense, and finishing malolactic at this time. We can
compare WSV’s wine with yours.
Grapes were
harvested in excellent condition, good color, quite firm, slightly shriveled. WSV
destemmer allowed many berries to pass unbroken. If you are shooting for a BIG,
long lived Syrah, you may leave the stem jacks in, otherwise, have a pail
available to pluck the obvious from the fermenting must. Consider your hand and
arm the best push down device – staying in touch!!
24.1° brix by
Refractometer (may vary w/hydrometer) has sufficient sugar for a big Syrah
3.54 pH is a great
place to start, it will rise with fermentation and malolactic.
0.55 Total acid is
on the low side. Probably indicates a low portion of malic. May add tartaric acid of .5 grams per liter
at outset of fermentation (7 grams per 5 gal. must). Would usually add a bit more, though the low
pH will make the acid taste have more impact. Ferment with
GRE (or) RP15 yeast. Allow fermentation to rise to 85°F. Press at 1° - 0° F
White Salmon Sauvignon Blanc
September 19th
was the incredibly early harvest of Sauvignon Blanc. High acidity, low pH and
intense flavors marked the grapes. In an effort to capture some of the aromas
and flavors I decided to harvest early, or what I thought was early – only to
find the grapes had changed in acidity and sugar to perfection. The juice has wonderful
flavors, a more demonstrative character than the 2012 SB.
Stats: 22.9°,
T.A 0.735, 3.21 pH
Treat this wine a
little dirty. It will require a malolactic if finished dry. Neutral oak or
glass & s/s. YAN is very low. You
must add nutrients (good ones) on start of fermentation and
again before 14°brix. Ferment cool and
steady with SBG & or VL3 from
Lalmand, they may get stinky, have faith – and make sure you have the yeast
well feed. Stir up the sediment. Add malolactic near end of alcoholic
fermentation. Finish dry. Some may prefer a bit of residual sugar. This may be
added at bottling time.
White Salmon Chardonnay
The acceptance this
year of the Wine Enthusiast Magazine of the low alcohol, clean fruit purity of WSV
Chardonnay has registered with commercial winemakers. WSV’s Chardonnay has come
into its own. A gold medal for the 2005 Chardonnay was a confirming vote to the
quality, and style of the fruit – the judgement was made in 7/2013. This is a
different style of Chardonnay from those grown in warmer areas. I would prefer
not to refer to it as Burgundian, though it ages and is at times similar, without
the Burgundian lows. It performs very well with potential alcohol readings of
12.4% – 13.4% alc. by vol. This range
may be obtained with 20.6° brix to 21.7° brix through the conversion of
fructose & glucose (more info to come).
This is the year to
learn about our White Salmon Chardonnay. The yield was low, bunches and berries
small. The grapes ripened early, evenly with transparent skins and visible dark
seeds. The harvest was well timed, the juice ready for a cool (40°f start to
65°f finish) fermentation with a properly rehydrated 3079 &/or W19 yeast. The critical ingredient is yeast food. A
generous addition of nutrient once ferment starts and another before 14°brix. Stir
the bottom of fermenter during fermentation. Add a malolactic culture near the
end of your yeast ferment.
French oak cubes or
oak may be used during fermentation – with restraint. Once dry, malolactic
complete, taste for acid addition. Add tartaric acid if desired, it may not
require any. Add 50 pp of potassium metabisulfite (1.9 grams per 5 gallons),
rack off gross lees, keep topped up and store.
Brix 22.0° pH
3.47 TA 0.525
No So2
Glucose + fructose =
213 = 12% to 13% ethanol
YAN = 62
MUST add yeast
nutrient!!!
White Salmon Pinot Noir
The number of bunches hanging on the cane pruned shoots was
low. While the vines have developed well, there were isolated patches on clay
and over rock lenses that were beginning to show weakness due to the lack of
any fertilizers. None have been added since planting. Bunches were small, as were
the berries. Not only did maturity come on unseasonally early for the
Chardonnay, it also did so for the Pinot Noir. The maturity was not isolated to
sugar, but included skin and seeds. There is good color and quite uniform skin
maturity. I would still recommend an
early pressing (having received a wonderful frozen cold soak) for this vintage,
as last vintage. Achieve 85°F in cap.
Recommend using 3001 yeast (for weight)
& RP15 yeast (for spice&pepper) from Lallemand.
Requires addition of yeast nutrient once fermentation
starts, and an equal portion about 15° - 18° brix
If a strong nutrient additions have been done, a malolactic
culture may be added after 8°brix while must/wine is still warm. Small additions of oak supplements to the
must pre-fermentation may assist in color retention.
Date 10.5.13 harvested
Brix 23.1° by refract pH 3.32 TA
0.53 Seed color tan
skin condition clean, losing strength color md. dark
Taste: Cherries
Glucose + fructose =
243 =
13.4% to 14.5% ethanol - this is more than enough !!
YAN = 125 – this is
low and requires yeast nutrient !!
Only consider French
Oak or very good Hungarian Oak. Please
do not over oak, the fruit will not let you down.
White Salmon Riesling
A new planting on
the NW corner of White Salmon Vineyard has started to express itself. The apple
like flavors and the light infection of botrytis combined with wonderful
weather brought forth a rich, flavorful juice that will produce a wonderful dry
wine or one with a bit of sweetness.
The juice had 70 ppm
SO2 added. I would not recommend a malolactic fermentation. I would gauge the
wine as a low level Ausleser, worthy of serious winemaking. Stats in next article. Ferment cool with QA23 or OPAL (when
no ML) yeast.
The myth that brix readings from
refractometer provide a good
idea of potential alcohol is / may not be accurate. I used one for years in
Coastal California with a high degree of confidence. Now with a commercial winery
where the wine’s alcohol needs to be accurately determined, I found unexpected
results and results I do not fully understand. Attached are explanations from
ETS Labs explaining why refractometer readings (which Brehm Vineyards has used)
are not accurate in predicting the finished wines’ alcohol.
One example would
be WSV’s 2013 Riesling:
Refractometer
Reading: 21.8° brix
Hydrometer Reading: 1.097 specific gravity
Glucose + Fructose
Reading: 232 g/L =
12.9% to 13.95% vol. alcohol
German conversion
chart: 1.097 s.g. = 23.2° brix
= 13.2% potential alcohol
Does the wine
qualify to be a Kabinett, a Spatlese, or
an Auslese ?
My question to
fellow winemakers, ‘Should we switch to Specific Gravity?’
Many Years ago I reduced
the importance of refractometer readings in determining the timing of grape harvests.
In California the usual harvest was at 23°or more brix, and we did not perceive
any problem. Stylistically there was a move to higher alcohols in the ‘90s,
which spawned a new industry of taking away alcohol for the ‘sweet spot’. But
the blame rested with new clones and more effective trellising, and canopy
manipulation. The refractometer’s readings were still considered accurate in
anticipating potential alcohol, giving variance for fermentation technics. We recommended adding acidulated water based
on these readings. My harvest decisions had been decided on taste, skin
condition, seed condition, vine condition, and the total sensory response you can
only get by being one on one with the vine(s) – though I knew you the customer would consider the brix
of high importance. It was the first lesson we learned.
Would a customer
purchase a Chardonnay with a brix of 20.7°; 19.80°? A commercial winery harvested the former brix
grapes from WSV and received 94 points from the Wine Enthusiast Magazine
– an editors choice. The latter brix was from WSV’s 2013 Chardonnay by
another commercial winery with the comment, “it is tasting great and I’m very
happy with the fruit”.
Balance is the key,
and an accurate assessment as to what the final alcohol will be. Most of us are
willing to have a wine with our meal, and still be able to dance afterwards.
WHERE is it written that must must be 22° ????
This has been a
concern of mine over the past few years.
The home Chardonnay wines I made from White Salmon Vineyard had been
called ‘sneaky Pete’ by my dad. After a
couple of glasses, you had the buzz. Unfortunately the alcohol also gave some
heat and bitterness to the wine. It became apparent that lower alcohol would be
a better balance for the wine. One of the impacts of terrior, of ‘hang time’ of
the fruit, and climatic impacts on the fruit, especially during veraison (late
ripening), is the balance of alcohol with the wine’s other components. Especially
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are impacted by these influences. The massive
Chardonnays of Santa Maria and cool Central Coast can carry their alcohol
better. The lighter wines of the Willamette and Columbia Gorge cannot usually
support that alcohol, but can live a longer life than most Californian wines. Our
2005 White Salmon Chardonnay won a Gold Medal in the Indiana International Wine
Competition (commercial) – not what you would expect from a warmer grown
Chardonnay.
Understanding the
context of the potential alcohol is as important as obtaining the correct
analysis. At this time glucose + fructose is the most accurate, I am hoping the
hydrometer can free us from having to use the labs for our determination of
potential alcohol. Refractometers are providing a skewed reference point,
especially at lower sugars.
Some of WHAT BREHM VINEYARDS OFFERS:
- BV makes the most critical decisions in winemaking.
o
When to Pick: In a recent article in Wine Business Monthly
(Nov 2013) consulting winemaker Eric Stern said, “I would definitely be in the
vineyards, tasting fruit and helping decide when to pick. I think that is the
most critical decision every winemaker makes each year. If they get that right,
the wine makes itself.” Brehm Vineyards
picks for wine quality – only. Shipping is not an issue.
o
Providing the Finest Grapes: In the same article Mr. Stern talks of
lessons learned, “…it was important to pick ripe fruit and that the vineyard
source was everything. I had a dozen different vineyards, but 10 or 11 of those
weren’t very good. No matter what techniques we used, we couldn’t produce great
wine. Slowly but surely, I realized that to improve wine quality, we needed to
improve vineyard sources…..If the vineyards were good and the fruit fully ripe,
the wines would almost make themselves.”
o
You know us personally: Brehm Vineyards has available all spray
records of grapes received. If there
is an issue concerning the grapes,
you have our number. We are the grower, or directly work with the grower.
o
Providing quality grape processing: Peter Brehm worked for 16 years selling
commercial grape processing equipment, presses, pumps and filters. He has a
small winery and has worked at wineries in Australia and New Zealand. The home
producer does not have the equipment to process grapes to the quality standards
provided by Brehm. Seldom will the home producer be able to process as quickly
after harvest. While receiving must and juice does deprive the maker of a work
filled, messy joy, it does provide a
quality beginning. Red winemakers may
still have a pressing party where the newborn wine may be served.
o
Providing reliable, quality delivery of
grapes to you: Fresh grapes
are available at Petaluma, CA and Underwood, WA, Frozen must and juice are
available delivered to your business or home, or to be picked up at Chicago,
IL; Richmond, CA; or Portland, OR.
Shipments to British Columbia and Ontario, Hawaii and Porto Rico are
arranged.
o
It is
proven: The Best Cold Soak is Frozen.
Who are these Brehm guys?
We like to think we
are a breeding ground for great winemakers. Great grapes attract great
winemakers who make great wine, and they know it. Some remain happy making
their premium wines, meeting family obligations. Others, convinced they can do
just as good as the finest wine in the market……go commercial. By 1974 I gave up
counting the leaps into commercial wine at 37. It’s true, the wine is
determined in the vineyard, you just need to bring it home, its easy, it does
require some occasional coaching. We provide the goods.
We have provided you
with wonderful Chardonnay from Buelton, CA to Underwood, WA – quite a spread in
miles, climate and styles. These are all great Chardonnays. They are all
different, all with their own style. Since 1970 Peter has been purchasing
grapes for resale, he is also an avid winemaker. He approaches the purchase of a
varietal with a view of the intended wine. That seldom changes but if conditions during
ripening warrant, we will make the best winemaking decision for you and the
fruit.. Our 2012 Nebbiolo ended up as a beautiful rosé juice instead of a deep
red wine must – disappointed winemakers were made whole, and the rosé was the
best use of those grapes.
Speaking personally,
I would guess you could call it style. I wish, for pecuniary reasons, that my
style would not be so particular. I cut my teeth on Carneros, Stags Leap,
Rutherford, Dry Creek before they became famous, before the relative value of
their wonderful fruit became out of whack with drinking wine. It was like using
a fast computer, once you are used to great grapes, it is hard to go back to
inferior fruit. Brehm Vineyards sells great grapes, and the present selection
is the best we have had. Making wine equal to those super premium priced wines provides
personal pride and your culinary statement. That is Brehm Vineyards’ niche.
We are presently
buying such grapes from Sonoma Mountain, from the Eastern Ridge above Sonoma
Valley with a wonderful mix of Bordeaux varietals, as well as some Petite
Sirah, Syrah and Zinfandel. These are grapes that would earn thousands of
dollars more per ton if the Napa County line was moved a little bit west. For
me the issue is the resulting wine. These vineyards, these grapes deliver.
While you expect degrees of greatness from the likes of John Caldwell, we also get
‘WOW’ responses with the Charlie Smith Vineyard Cabs, and they are WOW. I am
making a barrel myself, maybe a new barrel
We got incredibly
lucky when I was passed a gate code to an ocean view, steep vineyard
overlooking southern Santa Rosa. Mature vines, multiple blocks with Petite
Verdot, Malbec, Cab France, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Zinfandel, Merlot and
Petite Sirah. A commercial client called to place an order for this year’s of
Petite Sirah. He got all excited about the intensity of the vineyard’s fruit
and about the Petite Sirah in particular. He gushed, ‘It’s like motor oil!’. (The
Wine Spectator does not use that term) He ordered 8 drums more. Plum Ridge
is a winemakers dream. We hope to have an opportunity for more of you to visit. These mountain top
grapes reached full maturity in both vintages. They are the perfect balance to
the aromatic, vibrant grapes of the Northwest. I do believe we have the best of
both worlds.
Future verses Inventory Sales:
As fine wine, future
pricing of must and juices will reflect the perceived quality (and costs) of
the must or juice.
Future sales are only based on costs, Inventory sales should also be based on
Quality.
Buy now, you have a month to receive your grapes, before the finest are
elevated in price.
Thanks for your
support, have a wonderful family filled holiday season.
